MILAN, Jan 15, 2006/ FW/ --- ‘This collection is an homage to [Byron, Shelley, Baudelaire and Rimbaud] and to all that they have influenced – including rock & roll,’ wrote Ennio Capasa in his press notes.

Capasa who confessed that these men have been his inspiration all along, ‘for their lean and modern elegance’ that has eventually become the ‘soul of Costume National’ started a Britishmania that would be seen the whole day for the first day of the Milan Menswear season.

Top hats, coattails and vests; thin ties, cravats and scarves; suit jackets with boxy shoulders and double-breasted short-cropped jackets – it was everything that Ennio Capasa promised, silhouettes that are lean and elegant plus an edgy take on romance that borders on revolutionary.

Suits and jackets were striking with its lean and short shape for the day, and embellished with sequins and beads for the evening, the English gentleman was a poet in his earlier reincarnation, turning into the rock star of today.

Coats and trenches were luxurious in cashmere that was finished off with beaver collars cut knee-length or very short. Bomber jackets and waistcoats were navy and 19th century inspired made modern with wide lapels or without.

Typically British fabrics were the material of choice with alligator skin as the ultimate luxury. Seen in low-waisted trousers that were accented with large belts, the rock & roll look became chic street wear. The coup-de-grace, jeans in Japanese denim that was entirely hand-sewn.

Handsome as the trousers were, it was the shirts that were covetable. Tailored traditionally with collars, it also came collarless in white or striped silk. Double cuffed, they were perfect for cuff links, an almost forgotten accessory for men. Capasa brings it back either as an accessory and/or men’s jewelry.

Costume National

Costume National

Costume National

Costume National