Giuliano Fujiwara Menswear Spring 2007: A Symphony of Artisanship
Milan Menswear Show Spring 2007
By Mari Davis
Photos courtesy of Giuliano Fujiwara
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MILAN, Jun 29, 2006/ FW/ --- The synergy between music and fashion cannot be denied and Masataka Matsumura took that synergy to a higher level by creating a collection inspired by dub music.
Defining ‘dub music’ as ‘a rhythm with added instrumentation extension or echoes and primitive reverb effects, sometimes accompanied by snippets of lyrics from preexisting tracks and a re-invention of a musical extract,’ Matsumura deconstructed classic menswear only to be transformed into a splendid intermingling of themes and patterns.
And like dub music, which is a ‘sort of musical engineering operation, an experimentation remix of a finished piece, Matsumura redesigned constructions, volumes and proportions to be skillfully fused by artisanship and mastery of tailoring techniques.
Blousons were gathered at the hem, and then given a zipper to end up in a semi-Nehru collar. In turn, it was worn under a tuxedo jacket and paired with elasticized loose pants.
There is also a touch of futurism with the two-tone silver and white laced-shoes. There was also a touch of street with the sneakers and flip-flops and a touch of the past with the Louis XVI-inspired suit jackets.
Deconstructed look was achieved by using topstitching. Urban wear was redefined by paring wide legged high-waisted pants pleated on the front with tank tops and tuxedo jackets with sleeves rolled up.
The silhouettes were created by a mixing of effects and workings, taking the classic elements from the original version and re-mixing them in a novel order such as formal and sport, day and evening live side by side in easy going laid-back harmony.
Fabrics were treated and reworked, presented in different washes and textures, so that the natural fibers such as wools, precious cottons and fine linens were seen on a different light. Like dub music, it was sort of re-writing a finished piece.
This is Matsumura’s third collection for Giuliano Fujiwara. Last season, his collection was inspired by New Orleans jazz. In an after show interview, when the designer was asked why music continues to inspire him, he answered. ‘I love music. It is universal. Just like fashion, music moves me. So, I’m combining the two loves of my life.’
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