PARIS, Jul 9, 2002/ FW/ --- Cigarette smoke wafted, hand fans swished, and the afternoon sun beat down into the courtyard of an old factory where Adeline André staged her fall/winter couture collection.

It was exactly the kind of neighborhood, a grimy back alley in the 11th Arrondissement of Paris, where you'd least expect to find Fashion People lining up for a show.

From the bemused looks of the local residents, it was as if strange beings from outer space had invaded their turf.

And then there was the local postman, who simply walked across the concrete-asphalt runway mid-show, anxious that his appointed rounds not be encumbered.

But that was the point of it all.

Adeline André's work does not follow the standard description couture, glittering gowns, shimmering with sequins, but instead is cast in a subdued light, elegant in its simplicity.

The cut is loose and free, and highlighted with discreet touches.

There were coats ornamented with oversized buttons, skirts sewn with gathered hems, and dresses traced by innovative stitching.

In a sense, her style represents 'a getting back to the basics', a look proudly presented without the slightest pretension.

Skirts were worn over white tights, accompanied by moccasin-like shoes that admittedly did not take to well to the harsh and unforgiving runway.

Adeline works in rich, solid colors: paprika, emerald green, midnight blue, deep indigo, blueberry and burgundy.

Her palette is strong and clean, subdued perhaps, but just right for the fast approaching days of autumn.

The fabrics were varied and interesting, ranging from silk, and crêpe to organza and wool, all combined to create an intensely personal look.

Expect to see more from Adeline André, because hers is a name to remember.

Adeline André

Adeline André

Adeline André

Adeline André