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Yves Saint Laurent: Pomp & Polish
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
Click on image to see bigger photo.
Paris, Jul 11, 2001/ FWD/ --- The contrast between the "old" world of Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture and
the "new" one of ready-to-wear and perfumes, managed by Gucci, never felt greater than after the couturier's
brilliant display of classical good taste in Paris Wednesday.
The blaze of color that exploded onto the runway in the opening of Saint Laurent's fall/winter 2002 collection
only served to remind the audience of the black and brushed metal interiors of the nearby YSL store remodeled
by Gucci creative director Tom Ford.
Saint Laurent, as ever, staged his couture collection in the heavily illuminated gilded splendor of the Hotel
Intercontinental. On Monday, when Ford threw a huge launch party for his first YSL scent he staged it in a
darkened Paris Bourse. Even the soundtrack highlighted the disparity - Ford likes contemporary high-energy
pop and funk, Saint Laurent played Verdi throughout.
It's true that Saint Laurent hasn't broken any new ground in fashion in a long time. But if that means he
keeps on churning out clothes of undeniable class, then why not?
After a way-over-the-top Paris week, Yves' clothes had a refreshing simplicity. He opened with a dozen suits -
figure hugging, wool and tweed bouclé jackets over just below the knee, slightly flared skirts and big-bowed
satin blouses -that would make nearly any woman look polished.
A series of crepe columns in lichen, power red and black velvet were the epitome of style, and has anyone
seen a better Oscar winner dress than the one Alek Wek donned of daffodil and lavender satin?
Saint Laurent remains a master colorist; correction, THE master colorist. To take just one example: an iris
colored redingote over an indigo skirt and amethyst blouse. In most designers' hands this would have been a
mess, but chez Yves it looked remarkable.
Collectively it was a great vintage for Saint Laurent, albeit about a dozen outfits too long, and the crowd
rose to their feet to applaud.
The old champion, newly blond and clearly rising to the perceived challenge from Ford, has rarely looked
better. He practically swaggered down the runway. Even his octogenarian mother Lucienne looked sprightly,
darting around a huge gang of fans to compliment Yves.
Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture
Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture
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