Christian Lacroix's Ball of Triumph
By Timothy Hagy
(Photo by Gruber-FWD)
PARIS, Jan 22, 2003/ FW/ --- Christian Lacroix threw a ball.
And he certainly had reason
to this New Year, after celebrated the 15th year of his couture house, which has for
the first time ever seen black.
He received the coveted Légion d'Honneur from the hands of Bernard Arnault, President of LVMH.
He was commissioned by Air France to redesign the uniforms for its 30,000 agents, and he
is in strong competition to create new décor for the high-speed train, the TGV.
His couture show last Tuesday, held at the French Academy of Fine Arts on the Rive Gauche
of Paris, began with a mousse of cascading champagne bubbles produced by strobe lighting.
A first class soundtrack that at times emulated 18th century harpsichord coulées and
progressed into a distinctive waltz, set the leisurely pace for his large, and sumptuous show.
At front row sat Ivana Trump, along with a galaxy of French film stars.
The magnificent collection took its inspiration from a ballroom at Versailles, and the
regal splendor of the 18th century spun a gossamer web of seduction from beginning to end.
Lacroix understands the French approach to eroticism, the graceful charm that bubbles subtly
beneath the surface.
The models wore white, powdered wigs, and sauntered leisurely down a pink runway with a
coquettish flirtation that matched the playfulness of this graceful collection.
Certain tops looked to have taken their inspiration from the laced corsets of the court of
Louis XVI, and they were paired with either floating chiffon slacks or taffeta mini-skirts.
Flowing tailcoats also invoked the era of enlightenment.
Intricate brocades of sequins glittered throughout, while the interweaving of textures,
and prints led to virtual tapestry of color.
The highlight most certainly was the evening dresses, with so many sparkling gems that it
is hard to single out just a few.
Pink mousseline floated down in layers to reveal glittering ankle bracelets.
A delicate peach mousseline gown was over-fitted with a sensuous black veil imprinted with
a brocade of glistening sequins.
But the absolute tour de force was the exquisite wedding dress of peach chiffon embroidered
with crystal sequins, and veiled in peach taffeta for such a gossamer effect that it appeared
as if it would almost vanish into thin air.
This was arguable the strongest collection ever by Christian Lacroix, and he certainly
seemed to savor the moment, walking slowly down the runway to a cascade of peach carnations
and roaring applause.
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