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Anne Klein: The Lion is Back
By: Jenny Bailly
Photos by: Dimitrios Kambouris-FWD
New York, Sep 22, 2001/ FWD/ --- Anne Klein was to stage its first formal runway show in five years on the
afternoon of September 12. Instead, however, the presentation was relegated to a much smaller affair in the
house’s 42nd Street showroom last Friday.
An intimate group of buyers and editors lined plush benches to create a makeshift runway in the white-washed
space and catch a glimpse of designer Charles Nolan's latest collection, only his second ever for Anne Klein.
For Spring/Summer 2001, the Ellen Tracy vet drew inspiration from Havana in the 1940s. Silk jersey skirts
swung below the knee, cotton apron dresses were layered over walking shorts, and a cropped navy linen
boat-neck top was paired with white cotton twill shorts.
Of course, the no-nonsense workwear and sophisticated sportswear that Anne Klein is known for were also
present. Preppy cotton oxfords, collars up-turned and three-quarter sleeves cuffed and pushed to the elbow,
paraded down the runway. Suits included a peak lapel denim number and a raw-edge tweed version.
Our favorite pieces, though, were the well-cut, slightly flared trousers, accented with side stitching
and two-inch slits at the bottom.
With Nolan's appointment last February (he's the fifth designer to head the house since Donna Karan departed
to start her own company in 1985), Anne Klein announced that it would reclaim its signature lion-head
trademark. They weren't kidding around. Based on this collection, it seems as though Anne Klein is making up
for the lion's four-year absence in one fell swoop.
One roarer, rendered with gold studs, made its way onto a muscle tee, and another shirt featured a
crystal-studded version. A couple of clutches were also adorned with the ubiquitous logo. Belts clasped by
large gold medallion lions were incorporated in an overwhelming 11 ensembles.
There were some lion-free cinchers, though, in a collection that featured belts, belts, and then a few more
belts. A couple of asymmetrical versions cropped up and leather obi belts cinched a cracked antique leather
coat and a black twill shirt and shorts set.
Overall, Nolan did not depart greatly from the pale shades that have proliferated in most collections for
Spring 2002. He used a lot of ivories, nudes and whites, broken up by some black and navy. Alek Wek stood out
from the crowd in an almost neon orange linen coat.
Nolan also got a little more playful with his eveningwear ensembles. An ivory gilded top paired with a layered
tulle skirt could have been fantastical, but instead fell flat. A low-back, gold-beaded cocktail dress was
elegant, however.
Silk shantung floor-length skirts were striking as they rustled down the runway, but they could have done
without the matching sleeveless blazers.
Anne Klein
Anne Klein
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