Dirk Schönberger Menswear Spring 2006: Original, Sartorial and Philosophical
By: Mari Davis
Photo below: Dirk Schönberger, on the runway Spring 2007 Menswear show.
Photo by FW
PARIS, Jul 3, 2006/ FW/ – Inspired by the ‘Beat Generation’ writers, more for their philosophy than their way of dressing, Dirk Schönberger proposed an ‘alternative’ silhouette for menswear that is avant-garde yet rooted on classical styles for Spring 2007.
Classic pin stripe suits were given four buttons on the sleeves while tuxedo jackets had only two buttons and sported a shawl collar. Both were cut slim, the shoulders straight and the tailoring sharp.
Trousers were cut loose on top, tapering slightly at the bottom; sometimes they came without pleats, sometimes they were given double pleats.
Like the beat generation writers such as William S. Borroughs and Jack Kerouac, who engaged in a spontaneous, sometimes messy, creativity; Schönberger’s shifting silhouettes might look unplanned and without a thread that binds.
But, Schönberger actually kept it tight; the ‘seeming’ lack of logic part of the charm. Looking closer, it was apparent that Schönberger was proposing two types of suit jackets – the sartorial Savile Row style and the loose fitting cape-like cut that draped softly on the male torso.
And the trousers that had remained with a relaxed fit the whole time were detailed with topstitching and four buttons to give it a faux Cracker Jack effect.
Still, it was on the outerwear that Dirk Schönberger impressed the audience. Rolled collars on coats and raincoats, the collars become a hood when unrolled!
Bomber jackets were given the same treatment, but of course, Schönberger also made sure that the classic bombers that are elasticized at the waist and sleeves were also present. There is one twist though – the rolled collar is actually detachable, so one can still make it a hoodie if needed.
Schönberger’s eye of details and tailoring skills cannot be denied. His vision for menswear this season might not follow the current trend, yet his originality stands out.
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