Antonio Berardi Fall 2005
Milan Womenswear Show Fall 2005
Antonio Berardi: Stimulating & Invitingly Attractive
By Michelle Taylor
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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MILAN, Feb 27, 2005/ FW/ --- A journey, a legacy, an observation… Antonio Berardi takes us on a tour that for some lasted a lifetime.
A trailer, a passage, a documentary. Berardi shows the migration of fashion, the merging of cultures and the joining of a continent in an expedition across the United States of America on the transcontinental railway of 1840’s.
Trailblazers moved from East to West in one of the greatest industrial feats in the world’s history. The individual and creative Italian begins with New York elegance and finally ends up in San Francisco California with the Beach Boys and the Pacific Ocean.
Italian catwalk darling Maria Carla in a high waisted black sartorial tuxedo opened the show, setting the proud mood and eclectic energy for a collection full of superb looks and abundant style.
Berardi is a master in tailored detail, preferring the sartorial over embellishments and choosing select glitter Swarovski sparkles to shine on trim and back detail, while frills are plentiful, progressing from petticoats and flouncey skirts to bustles and fine drapery.
His bold use of volume is tenacious, innovative and fierce as layering takes on special importance bringing lace, jacquard, jersey and luxurious fur to life.
Trousers are slim fitting and contrast against 19th century girly tiers and ruffles, while pleats are plenty and either boxy for skirts and in the back of jackets or small and delicate for long dresses.
A wardrobe both romantic and adventurous, soft paisley meets American Indian reminiscent looks, denim is feminine and multiple buttons and maxi belts close accentuated waistlines like bodices and bustiers in this collection of wearable creativity.
Delicious leather boots are wedged, matching everything from fur lined warm overcoats, culottes and voluminous baby doll dresses.
Boom times and westward immigration lead to a nation of plenty, and just like Antonio Berardi’s wardrobe for autumn winter 2005/06, the spreading of ideas is attractively stimulating and invitingly attractive.
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